• Sandra

Double, Double, No Toil, No Trouble Face Mask - Part 2

In this post I will be showing you how easy it is to assemble this double-layered face mask by Creative Grids.

Since masks need to be cleaned on a regular basis, I do want to mention that I think it's really important to wash, dry, and press your fabrics before making your mask. It would be a shame to have it shrink up and not fit after the first cleaning.

A couple of accessories I use on my sewing machine are my quarter-inch foot with a guide foot and my marked bobbin cover. One or the other work well, but I use both especially when I am working with the curved edge. The marked cover is a great visual aide and helps me to achieve a smooth and even seam on the curve. My quarter inch foot is my go-to whenever I want that perfect 1/4" seam. So, now that I have everything ready- it's time to stitch.

Sew RST (right sides together) on the curved outside edge of the first layer fabric set and then repeat on the second layer set.

Having a good set of pinking sheers will make the next step simple. The alternative is to clip the curve to the seam allowance, but not cut into it. If you clip, then you can press the seam to one side. I found that when I use the pinking shears, I can press the seam open and it lays nice and flat.

This is a Tailors Ham. Aptly named as it looks like a ham. I use it mostly in garment making, but it comes in very handy in home décor and crafts- anytime I need to press a dimensional surface.

As you can see here, the curved edge sits perfectly

around the edge of the Tailors Ham. After giving it a quick press, it lays open and reduces bulk in the seam.

Repeat the same step with the second layer.

Next you will want to place RST both sewn layers, matching the center seam and edges.

I used the no-melt button pins to hold it in place and keep it from slipping.

Sew 1/4" seam allowance on the right and left side seams.

Now you need to place one of the two pieces of elastic (cut to the size listed on the template) between the layers and tight to the seam. I used a mini wonder clip to hold it in place. The clips hold like pins without causing bulk.

You will next sew across the entire top edge securing the ends of the elastic with the same 1/4" seam allowance. I like to reinforce over the elastic as it will get a lot of use.

Clip the curve.

Once the top seam is complete, you need to push the remainder of the elastic inside the mask being carful not to twist it.

Use the wonder clips to hold the tip of the elastic in place on the bottom edge.

Stitch across the bottom, remembering to reinforce the ends of the elastic.

As you stitch across the bottom, leave about an inch and a half open so you can turn the mask right side out.

The next step is to turn it right side out and press it. I use my pointer turner by Clover to get the corners sharp.

If you want to add the pleat, use the markings on the template and clip or pin it and then top stitch around the entire edge. I stitch it about 1/8" or a scant 1/4" to make sure the opening gets stitched close. The top stitching will help to hold its shape wash after wash. After I made the first mask, the following masks went really fast because they are really easy- no toil and no trouble. I hope you give them a try too!

Smiles, Sandra of Inspired Remnants LLC InspiredRemnants@gmail.com

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