• Sandra

Hoppy Spring- Applique in a Sticky Hoop (part 2)

In this second part, I would like to show you more about how the Sticky Hoop performs. I believe that a product should meet or exceed the expectations of what it is marketed to do. I can appreciate a new gadget, but I don't care for gimmicks. There are a lot of notions out there and finding one that works for you like you expect is a blessing. So here is how it worked for me...

After loading the Stick-Tear to the back of the hoop according to the instructions. I began stitching out my Kimberbell mug rug design. I really liked how the batting and fabric laid flat in the hoop. When I first tested the Sticky Hoop out, I paid close attention and checked how the stabilizer performed. It remained tight and did not stress as more layers of fabric were added.

Here you can see the bunny design taking shape and the background quilting stitched.

The next step is the applique. I typically use an interfacing on any white or light colored fabric that will lay on top of a darker fabric. It helps to prevent the fabric underneath from showing through the top.

This Sticky Hoop provides a flat surface for "hoopless embroidery" - making it a breeze to position my applique scissors parallel to the fabric so I can cut close to the stitch line. Notice how the scissors are able to lay flat. I can easily manipulate them all the way around the area to be trimmed and make a nice clean cut.

Because the Sticky Hoop

is just a frame and does not have a top or inner hoop, you will not have to work around a lip or side edge when snipping or cutting around your applique. In the past, I would occasionally hoop my applique projects in a larger sized hoop so I could work around the applique with more ease. However, it used more stabilizer and didn't always help.

This hoop also allows for embroidering items that are too bulky to fit between traditional hoops or that need to extend past the hoop edge to lay past the edges.

I had previously discussed how the centering rulers that come with DIME hoops are very helpful in placement. Here is a great example of how these can assist you.

When making the Kimberbell mug rugs, the backing is attached in the final steps and placement is important. It needs to cover the entire top, overlap according to the instructions, and stitched on straight. In order to ensure that all happens, I line up my fold right at the mark on both the top and bottom of the hoop.

I then take the second piece of backing fabric and place it so it lines up on the mark at the top and bottom. Having the rulers to line up the fabric (instead of just a center mark) will ensure that your fabrics are placed evenly! It is really quick and easy!

The last thing that I wanted to cover in regards to the Sticky Hoop is how the Stick-Tear stabilizer performs.

With all the stitched layers, the Stick-Tear stabilizer did not pull, tear, or separate off the bottom of the hoop. That was impressive!

Once you remove the mug rug from the hoop, you can peel the remainder of the stabilizer from the back of the project and follow the rest of the mug rug directions. I used the Clover Point 2 Point Turner to get the four corners squared.

After a quick press to the set the seams flat, you will have a whimsical mug rug to enjoy!

I hope you find stitching these mug rugs as enjoyable as I do.


Sandra of Inspired Remnants LLC


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